Wadi Rum — barren, isolated and beautiful, granite cliffs contrasting with desert sand.

 

This area of Jordan is quite isolated and largely inhospitable to settled life. The only permanent inhabitants are several thousand Bedouin nomads and villagers. There is no real infrastructure, leaving the area quite unspoilt. Apart from the Bedouin goat hair tents, the only structures are a few concrete shops and houses and the fort headquarters of the Desert Patrol Corps.

 

Must see:

 

• Lawrence's house: Nobody is certain that this was Lawrence's house, although there are stories that he both stayed and/or stored weapons here. The current structure is built upon the remains of a Nabataean building, however, and it's another beautiful spot in the desert. The house itself is bunch of rubble, though, and not very impressive.

• Lawrence's Spring: Just 2km (1.2 miles) south-west of the village of Rum. The spring is at the top of a short scramble - head for the fig tree! Although the pool itself is largely unprepossessing, being a stagnant puddle, the views across the desert are truly spectacular.

• The Nabataean Temple: Near the Rest House in Rum Village. The surrounding area is covered in Thamudic and Kufic rock art.

• Shalalah Spring: Near the Nabatean Temple above. Not so impressive as Lawrence's Spring but can be seen at the same time as the Nabatean Temple in a walk from the village.

• The Anfashieh Inscriptions: Not far from the red Sand Dune area this mountain has depictions of a camel caravan from the Nabatean and Thaumadic period.

• Jebel Burdah (Big Rock Bridge/Arch): On many tours you only view this from a distance, but it is possible to climb up to this rock bridge if you have a guide and a reasonable level of fitness. Climbing takes 4-7 hours (depending on your experience), therefore it takes a whole day tour.

• Jebel Umm Fruth (Middle Rock Bridge/Arch): A lower rock bridge which is featured on many tours and can be easily scrambled onto. The climbing takes 5-15 minutes (depending on your experience).

• Red Sand Dunes (Umm Ishrin): There are various places in Wadi Rum where the white and red sands meet, but the most commonly visited is a dune sloping up alongside a jebel - a bit tough to climb up, great fun to run down! It can be difficult ascending those - use small steps. Usually, the spot is used for sand-boarding.

• Seven Pillars of Wisdom: Although most people can only count five, this is an impressive rock formation near the Visitor's centre. It is named after T E Lawrence's book - not the other way around!

• Khaz'ali Canyon: This narrow canyon contains numerous Nabataean rock carvings of people and animals. Beautiful.

 

The genuine attraction of Wadi Rum is the desert itself, best seen by four wheel drive, pick-up truck or on camel. Some visitors only spend a few hours in the Wadi, but it's definitely worth taking a guided trip of several days duration, staying overnight in Bedouin camps in the desert. Four wheel drives are less bumpy than the open-air pick-up trucks, but the latter have advantages when it comes to taking photos.

The quality 4-wheel-drive tour depends on a Bedouin driver who serves as a guide, but often does not have much knowledge and poor English. Therefore, picking up a guide at the gate is a hit and miss affair and many of the best guides rely mainly on advance bookings.

You can usually make advance bookings through your hotel, and this may be advisable given that some guides will not have good English. Many of the guides have websites, through which you can arrange your tour. Regardless, you should always make sure that you and your guide have a clear agreement on price and the itinerary and stops that are covered in the tour.

 

 

Many camps will provide traditional Bedouin meals. One speciality is chicken or goat cooked under the desert sand, generically known as "zarb" in the same way as we might say "a roast". This has a barbecue flavour, but is very moist and falls off the bone: try to be nearby when they unearth it as the smell released is gorgeous!

You won't be able to avoid the Bedouin tea, which is almost forcibly served in every tent you will visit. It's hot, very sweet and usually flavoured with mint and sage. It's surprisingly refreshing on a hot day and you may develop a slight addiction to it.

 

While being in Wadi Rum, be especially careful. Recently here encreased a number of cases when foreign girls and women were scammed by the local Bedouins. Through charm, sweet words and beautiful lie they try to take all your money. Scamming is growing very rapidly in this region.